Paratrechina longicornis Species Introduction
Budding. Colonies have many queens and spread by splitting, with a group of queens and workers walking off to a new nest site together. Queens shed their wings while they're still callow, before they ever leave the nest, and males have rarely, if ever, been seen flying. So there's no mating flight to catch, and you'll be starting with a fragment that already has queens and workers.
A pantropical tramp ant, and the most widespread invasive ant in the world. In the US they live outdoors across Florida and the Gulf Coast, and indoors in heated buildings well north of that. Where they originally came from has been argued over for a long time. The latest genetic work points to the Indian subcontinent. Workers are 2.3–3 mm, dark brown to almost black with a faint blue sheen, long white bristles, and antennae and legs that are absurdly long for their size. They nest just about anywhere: trash, mulch, rotten wood, tree cavities, soil. Their genetics are strange. Daughter queens are clones of their mother, sons are clones of their father, and only the workers are a mix of the two. So queens can mate with their own brothers in the nest and never inbreed. When Biosphere 2 in Arizona was surveyed in 1996, more than 99.9% of the ants coming to baits were this species. They were living mostly on honeydew from scale insects and mealybugs. TrapJaw Labs does not provide invasive ant species to customers, and strongly encourages keepers to consider keeping native ants. It is important to understand that all ants have native ranges where ant keepers may be located, and so we provide this information as a service to them. Invasive ants should NEVER be transported outside their established range, even within state lines.
Expect tons of activity. Colonies grow fast and they'll forage at almost any hour, running everywhere at once. The thing that'll bite you is containment. These are tiny ants with long legs built for running, and they'll find any gap you leave. They're also an invasive species. If they get out, that's more than a lost colony. Treat a sealed setup and a fresh fluon barrier as part of keeping them, not an extra.
Formicarium
They don't need deep substrate to dig in. A nest with thin chambers they can move straight into suits them just fine. Give them more outworld than you think they need, since most of the action happens out there. A secure lid and a well-kept fluon barrier are a must. Be ready to size up quickly.
Water & Humidity
Moderately humid, with a gradient. In the wild they'll nest in dry spots and damp ones alike, so they're forgiving here. Keep one end of the nest damp and the other dry. They'll move the brood to wherever it needs to be.
If you're housing a fragment in a test tube, use TrapJaw Labs PVA sponges. Unlike cotton, they won't mold on their own.
Keep a liquid feeder with water (distilled, purified, or spring) in the foraging area at all times. We suggest the TJL Liquid Feeder for ants this small. The mesh keeps them from drowning.
Carbohydrates
Sugar comes first with these ants. In the wild they tend aphids, scale insects and mealybugs for honeydew, and they'll work a sugar source nonstop. Keep a sugar feeder stocked in the outworld 24/7 and don't let it run dry.
Honeydew Honey or plain sugar-water both work. Honeydew Honey is closer to the honeydew they drink in the wild. Honey-water doesn't belong in a liquid feeder, though. Offer it in a dish or on a slice of organic apple.
We recommend providing sugar-water (we use our Ant Nectar Mix) and fresh-water liquid feeders in the outworld at all times.
Protein
Protein-hungry, especially while the colony is expanding. We suggest feeding protein 2–3 times a week. Drop a fruit fly in and it'll be swarmed within minutes.
TrapJaw Labs feeds our P. longicornis colonies with pre-killed Drosophila melanogaster and D. hydei fruit flies, cockroach nymphs, and sliced mealworms. They aren't picky.
Two to three times per week. Increase amounts to scale with brood development.
Maintenance
Week 1: Let the fragment settle in somewhere warm and undisturbed. It already has workers to collect food, so put sugar-water out right away. Check the fluon before they go in, not after.
Weeks 2–4: The queens get back to laying and the workers start exploring. Start protein 2–3 times a week. Within days they'll be all over the outworld, and you'll see where the 'crazy' in the name comes from.
Months 2+: Growth is quick with several queens laying. Keep the heat on and the feeders full 24/7. Add outworld space before it feels cramped, and check the fluon barrier every single time you open the setup.
Diapause is not required for this species. They're tropical and never evolved a winter. Cooling them doesn't rest the colony. It kills brood. Keep them warm and feeding year-round.
Care Summary
- Start from a fragment with queens, not a lone queen
- Sugar feeder stocked 24/7
- Protein 2–3×/week
- Warm gradient, 78–90°F
- Damp end, dry end
- Escape-proof setup, fluon kept fresh